Sunday, July 17, 2011

Mountaineering in Sikkim


Douglas w. Frieshfield.


The first European to explolre the kanchendzonga area was Douglas W. Frieshfield who reached its base in 1899 from green lake basin area.He also became the first mountaineer to examine the western face of kanchendzonga,which rises from the kanchendzonga glacier.In 1929,German mountaineers made their first attempt on Kanchendzonga followed by another attempt in 1931  but they turned back by poor weather and bad condition  having reached 26000feet.
kanchendzonga was first climed by British expedition led Charles evans  on may 25,1955 .The British expedition honored the beliefs of sikkimese ,who hold the summit sacred by stopping a few feet from actual summit.most successful summit parties since followed this tradition.In 1955,Charles Evans reached Kanchendzonga, a few feet below the summit from Nepal side.
In 1977, an expedition led by major Prem chand  reached a few feet below the summit.In 1987,an Assam rifles expedition attempted the peak.In 1991,an Indo-japenese expedition led by Hukam singh and Yoshio ogata reached the summit of the peak. 

                                                               Siniolchu taken from the Zemu Glacier by Vittorio Sella

Siniolchu(6,888m) is one of the tallest mountains of the Indian state of SikkimDouglas Freshfield described Siniolchu as "the most superb triumph of mountain architecture and the most beautiful snow mountain in the world". 
Siniolchu’s summit was first scaled in 1936 by the German climbers Karl Wien and Adi Göttner.Later Sikkimese Everest climber, Sonam Gyatso, also scaled the top.(source-

                  Kabru, from Dzongri in Sikkim

kabru was first climed  in 1935 by a British,C.R Cooke.He climed alone and without oxygen  reached the summit of kabru north and he became the highest solo climber but his achievement remained until 1953.Pyramid peak was first conquered in 1949 by swiss ,R.Dittert.A British,A .M Kallas,climed the paunhri in 1911.


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